Curious about Starbucks in Florence
Another nail in the Disneyland coffin for the Renaissance pearl
There is a FOURTH Starbucks that opened in Florence’s historical center (a UNESCO site!!) which accounts for about 7 in the whole city (one being a drive-thru).
Instead of going on a tirade about all the things wrong with that, I would rather point out some lesser-discussed considerations (in addition to my WTAFs) and share some alternatives for those who do want a specialty coffee in Florence. (TLDR: link HERE)
Here’s the thing: whether you’re aware of it or not- there is a lot of people who expect Italy to be performative with nonnas in rustic wood furnishings stuck in time peeling artichokes and slugging back burnt espressos or coffee from dirty moka pots. Without questioning what locals actually think or demand. It’s already been in grocery stores for some years now, but I’m sure seeing a store invokes a certain sort of nightmare.
Especially since many don’t even realize coffee doesn’t grow in Italy (let alone its birthplace being in Ethiopia) but grows in regions near the equator we more often than not exploit and underpay for the precious, high demand commodity.
And a lot of Italian teenagers are the ones lining up for places like Starbucks, even if it does represent an awful part of American (consumerist) culture. North American culture is more influential around the world than many themselves care to realize.
A lot of our media (movies to music) is preferred, which answers the question why in Italy you’re not hearing la dolce vita or whatever tarantella kitsch Italian music from a trending IG reel or TikTok instead of some outdated top 40 list from the 90s. This is not to say I agree with it (I consider myself critical of our capitalist patriarchy!) but it’s the reality.
And I don’t want to discount the cultural influence the UK or other countries has had on globalization in terms to consumption/pop culture, but I’m from the US myself and prefer to speak from my own personal observations.
That said, we need to stop imposing our romantic and nostalgic expectations on a culture that is not ours. It is my belief that America has a control issue with thinking it knows what’s best for the rest of the world.
And honestly, I don’t mind Starbuck’s in the train station since during the summer it’s the only place I can get a cold coffee (or a coffee to go without a wait!) when Italians are slugging back pipping hot espresso in 90+ degree heat. I am not above a handy American convenience! Who says we have to be culture snobs all the time?
This is partly what bewilders me about Americans coming here frustrated with the different culture around customer service (and pace) but then gripe about American brands being here. Make up your mind! Do you want faster service or not? You can’t have the best of both worlds! You do realize the irony (and hypocrisy) in staying in an Airbnb in a city like Florence all the while deriding Starbucks, don’t you?
I’m being a little flippant, but you get the point. Ask yourself, what do Italians want? Also, maybe Starbucks could give Italian coffee culture a little competition it needs.
Maybe Italy wasn’t meant to be stuck forever frozen in time just so you feel like you get to ride the Disneyland time machine while locals see the traditional stuff as an eyesore. I’m not saying I agree with any of these points, just the devil’s food for thought.
Don’t get me wrong, when I passed by the new Starbucks it was full of tourists and study abroad students. I’m not saying Italians were all clamoring to the front for a frap. They’ve all been pushed out from living in the historical center, anyways!
And not just any tourist or student (I’m a tourist and have been a study abroad student!), but the type who seem to only be in Florence because it seemed like a cool postcard pretty resort town vs a cultural bastion they sincerely want to get to know.
The fact is, whether you like it or not, Starbucks in Italy is another cog in the big free market economy. I’m not an economist nor will I pretend to sound like I understand anything about numbers, finance or markets- but this I know.
Still, I wonder…WHY THE F*** A STARBUCKS ON VIA DEL CORSO???? First it was Sephora in the center, Lush and all the other homogenous soulless brands (you can find everywhere!) and now this? Florence, are you okay?
I wonder why couldn’t a place like Ditta Artigianale be there?? (Oh yeah, global purchasing power!) Now more and more cities are starting to look the same with the same stores. There’s convenience in that for sure, but it erodes the small business culture I personally prefer to support. But I don’t get to decide that, ultimately the masses (and investors) do.
Italy has espresso coffee culture down, but more times than not- the quality and execution leaves much to be desired. Not much is discussed around the ethics of coffee sourcing and coffee agriculture.
Jessica Satriani is a coffee expert in Florence you should be following and is one of the most important voices advocating for improving coffee culture in Italy (and I hope her project Coffee Soul Relief gets revived). I also enjoy Specialty Pal’s work.
Another consideration for why Starbucks is able to thrive, is that I understand Italian espresso isn’t for everyone. Americans are devastating with their palates sometimes (i.e. that of a child who can’t handle anything more bitter than iceberg lettuce) and in some ways we should be sensitive to the picky palates brigade. There are ways to get coffee drinks that aren’t just bitter espresso and here are a few examples:
From Ditta’s coffeemisu’ and almond syrup caffe’ Leccese, Serafini’s fornacino, Wild Bun’s flat whites, Gilli’s marrocchino or Rivoire’s pure chocolate infused cappuccino, cold brews from Coffee Mantra or Fluid and all the pastries to pair with a foamy cappuccino at Dolci e Dolcezze- why waste your time at a sterile Starbucks?
There’s the saying “Talk good about me, talk bad about me, but please talk about me.” And by talking about Starbucks sometimes feels like giving free promo and visibility to a conglomerate we claim to not like.
Another point of view I will offer in defense of Starbucks in Italy, is I have noticed younger locals working behind the bar. I don’t know the type of contracts they have, but I would like to think this is a positive perk since those of us in Italy understand a thing or two about the realities of the job market here.
That said, I invite you all to read this piece on Paradise of Exiles by
including the historical importance of Via del Corso.I ultimately agree having a Starbucks in a UNESCO site that is Florence’s historical center is a disappointing move, even if under the guise of a “free market.”
What are your thoughts? Would love to read them.
As far as more resources for getting specialty coffee in Florence, please consult this guide and share with any of your friend’s planning a visit to Florence. Friends don’t let friends drink American coffee they can find anywhere when in Italy with excellent espresso culture.
With curiosity,
Coral
Well the good news is if the stores don’t do well they’ll close because money talks. I’ll be in Florence next week and will enjoy espresso at a local bar…not Starbucks!
"Another point of view I will offer in defense of Starbucks in Italy, is I have noticed younger locals working behind the bar ... etc". We've seen arrogant sentence many times. It pops up whenever a new global corporation (typically American) enters the Italian market. McDonalds comes to mind. Maybe the same was said when the Grand Tour was at its height and foppish Gand Tour foreigners were enjoying teas near the Spanish Steps. Saying that, we actively encourage mass tourists to always think of McDonald's, Starbucks and friends for personal hygiene needs. It's what they do best. You dont even need to buy anything. Just do it!