Curious about alternatives to the viral must-eats in Florence

I don't know how a panini, pizza or vanilla gelato has attracted lines down the street

Perhaps this has been a long time coming or if I’ve just been asleep, but I am sincerely bewildered by how Florence has quickly turned into a mangiaficio (one big eatery). I’m uncertain how to translate this to readers who don’t live in Italy, but the kind of shifts Florence of what locals call “turismo spazzatura” (trash tourism) has endured has taken 6 months in what would have taken 3 years. And I’m not sure what phenomenon is driving these drastic shifts.

Perhaps part short form videos that go viral, part everyone now an influencer selling you the image of their life to incite FOMO, part more affordable access to travel (which has pros and cons) and part just the popular majority have grown tired of thinking for ourselves. Or maybe they never did and now they have the tools to fuel their apathy and lack of critical analysis.

I find the plethora panino shacks (all with lines) and the hype around vanilla and espresso gelato simply WILD. But I wanted to write about why I think they have garnered so much frenzy and my ideas of some tastier alternatives.

A lot of people ask why Florence is so known for panini and how all’Antico Vinaio became such a smash hit. I can only trace it to the visual wonder of our flatbread schiacciata, which is rooted in the verb “schiacciare” (to smash/squash). I have written on this topic on my food culture blog (you know, things people used to read before pre-digested videos came out and all our attention spans went to mush)

These are long slabs of flatbreads punched down by hand, slathered with oil and dressed in salt. Not to be conflated with Liguria’s focaccia or Rome’s pizza bianca. For me, schiacciata is a Tuscan bread in a league of its own.

Ligurian focaccia

Focaccia from Liguria is pillowy, a lot thinner with not a huge amount of crumb and dangerously easy to crush due to the fact every bite practically melts in your mouth. When baked with onion or pesto, your life changes a little. I went to Camogli last summer and happily ate bags of focaccia by the beach every day from Revello.

f*** Cinque Terre, go to Camogli instead (if anything for Forno Revello)

Then you have focaccia Barese (from Puglia’s Bari) and it’s something slightly thicker yet airy in some way. And lots of crunchy edges. Preferably doused in tangy tomato, salt, rich olive oil and studded with olives.

will smile for carbs

Truth be told, Bari’s focaccia is the only thing I liked about Bari. I visited this Spring alongside other Southern Italy spots (detailed in my Positano vs Sorrento post) and Bari was the biggest letdown. I find it another destination being consumed by viral recommendations. To sum up my salty take on Bari, check out this TikTok vs Reality.

Perfect Pugliese focaccia in the streets of Bari

Pizza bianca from Rome to me is almost a bit crunchier, and in the middle between a schiacciata toscana and a focaccia ligura.

10 points if you can guess where in Rome

Truth be told, I’m very selective when I eat bread (not because of toxic body size standards, which is something I’ve recently finally have started to overcome) but because of blood sugar swings. I love a well made slice of bread. So when I do, you better believe I’m going to go for the slices worth the rollercoaster.

When I lived in San Francisco, I was enamored with Liguria Bakery. So much so, I went on this focaccia pilgrimage to try to find the best focaccia in Liguria and I learned so much more than expected along the way. Special thanks to Elizabeth Jones for having been my focaccia and cheese Focaccia di Recco whisperer.

Now that you all have carb-loaded on flatbread differences, back to Florence…

Instead of these panini shacks, I think going to a bakery to get a schiacciata ripiena (stuffed schiacciata panino) with bread baked right there is more of the move. My most fond memory of my first visit in Florence was ducking into Forno Canapa in San Lorenzo for a healthy helping of fried dough coccoli and schiacciata.

These are the kinds of experiences that leave an impression on a visitor. Going to a generational run bakery! We don’t have many of those left where I am from in the states! A sandwich shack on the other hand, is not as special in my opinion.

I wonder how many people look fondly upon memories in a line with other English-speaking tourists or having eaten somewhere where only the local language is being spoken around them and can witness truly family traditions.

There are some hole in the walls in Florence like Semel and I’Fratellini that have some unique soul. Here is a list for best baked goods around Florence (on my food culture blog Curious Appetite)

Instead of pizza at Gustapizza, these are my picks for a pie without the line.

On to the viral affogato. I have a theory as to why this has blown up in popularity. Yes, it is delicious. But so is pretty much any affogato made well and Vivoli isn’t the only place in Florence that can make one. I simply think it has to do with the presentation of how the cup is filled and the little detailed vintage paper coaster.

curiousappetite

A post shared by @curiousappetite

Instead of an 8eu vanilla gelato and espresso affogato (I still am in shock that last year this was 5eu and is now 8eu.), get a coffee granita and add gelato or more granita atop. Maybe in the winter a warm espresso with gelato might be a nice treat, but in the warmer months consider a ride on the granita train. If you still crave an affogato, save your $ and go pretty much anywhere that has an espresso machine.

curiousappetite

A post shared by @curiousappetite

(copied from the caption in IG post above, thanks for allowing me to save the time in repeating myself;)

☕️ @gelateriadeinerifirenze a classic! Huge fan of their cremino al pistacchio
🍧 @carabeofficial @ara_panefornelliecosearuci for coffee granita with the best pistachio gelato in town
I also dig the coffee granita from @il_procopio_ (all of their gelato is on point imo)
☕️ @caffedegliartigianifirenze ask for a scoop from next door @gelateriadellapassera for a DIY affogato

🍫 In the center, @badiani1932_it and chocolatier @slittiexperience are gelaterie also with an espresso machine

And more on this guide to my favorite gelato spots in Florence

Apologies for linking up lists and posts with all the intel, but the info is there for those who want it (and it’s all free!)

Any thoughts on the matter? Would be curious to read yours.

Grazie mille for reading

Coral x